The ultimate guide to the historical places in Polonnaruwa
The well-preserved historical places in Polonnaruwa make this ancient city one of the best archeological sites in Sri Lanka. Established before the Chola invasion from South India in the 10th century, it’s under this kingdom that the city flourished as the capital of the country after the demolition of Anuradhapura. Strolling around Polonnaruwa archeological ruins, you will notice traces of the Hindu culture in the Shiva shrines. Moreover, in the architecture of other buildings within the sacred city, you can observe other traces of Indian influence. Polonnaruwa was one of the first destinations we reached during our one week in Sri Lanka and was a stunning discovery. Listed among UNESCO world heritage sites, Polonnaruwa and its historic places should be a must-see in every Sri Lankan tour.
The history of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa is the second largest city in the north-central province, but it is one of the most beautiful in the country. Developed as an alternative capital by Sri Lankan kings, it was first used as a royal place of residency by King Aggabodhi I (667–683). When the Chola kingdom invaded Sri Lanka capturing the last king of Anuradhapura, Mahinda V, they also destroyed the ancient capital. Shortly after, in 1017 they established their ruling capital in Polonnaruwa, calling it Jananathapuram. After over 50 years, a local king, Vijayabahu I, in 1070 attacked Polonnaruwa and defeated the Chola invaders. However, the local hero of Polonnaruwa is Parakramabahu I as under his reign many historical places in Polonnaruwa were built.
The Golden Age of Polonnaruwa
Under the kingdom of Parakramabahu I (1153–1186) the ancient city of Polonnaruwa reached its golden age. Under his reign was built a vast irrigation system that to this day supply the water necessary for paddy cultivation during the dry season in the east part of the country. The highest point of this system was the creation of the artificial lake of Parakrama Samudra, from Sanskrit for sea. Encircling the city like a ribbon it also worked as a defense barrier against potential invaders. The irrigation network boosted the local rice cultivation that from that moment on started to be exported in other eastern countries. This is why, likewise Puglia in the south of Italy under the Roman Emperor for the western world, Polonnaruwa was known as the granary of the Orient. My tour among the historical places of Polonnaruwa started visiting some archeological sites near this lake built under Parakramabahu I.
The fall of Polonnaruwa
Except for Parakramabahu I’s immediate successor, Nissankamalla I, all the others monarchs of Polonnaruwa started a politic of matrimonial alliances with stronger South Indian Kingdom. This policy lately led to the loss of the local royal lineage and the depletion of the Sinhalese power. Many kings moved their capital out of Polonnaruwa with poor control of the rest of the country. The political situation after Polonnaruwa’s fail was stagnant until the foundation of the Tamil Kingdom at the beginning of the 14th century. Establishing their capital in Nallur, in the Jaffna Peninsula, the kingdom of Jaffna soon expanded to the south initiating a long conflict with the Sinhalese.
The statue of Pulasthi
Entering the archeological area from the furthest access point to the south, you will meet at first a huge statue. Measuring 11.48 feet (3.5 meters) in height, many revise in this sculpture a portrait of a king, probably Parakramabahu I. Also, there might be a link between the book he is holding, in Sanskrit “pot” and the place where it is located, Potgul Vihara. According to another theory the statue portraits a sage, Pulasthi due to the poor clothes is wearing. Moreover, the statue holds an Ola leaf book suggesting that he is the sage after whom the city was named. In detail, Polonnaruwa was once called Pulathispura or city of Pulasthi.
Potgul Vihara
Close to this statue is the Potgul Vihara. This is a Buddhist monastery with a library complex. Built in bricks over four platforms, it probably hosted also a residence for monks. The peculiarity of this place is the circular layout of the building in the center of the edifice. This is the only monastery in Sri Lanka with a similar plan. Likewise other historical places in Polonnaruwa, the Potgul Vihara was one of many Buddhist edifices. The kings who ruled during Polonnaruwa kingdom built Buddhist schools for monks who were known as the Pirivena. The Brahmins were the only group who had the right to receive the education. Pali and Sanskrit were the official languages.
The council chamber of king Nissankamalla
Close to the Parakrama Samudra in the royal garden, the council chamber of king Nissankamalla is one of the better-preserved historical places in Polonnaruwa. This rectangular structure rises on a two tiers platform. Inside there are the remaining pillars probably used to support the roof. Interesting here are the inscriptions on the columns indicating the position and the responsibilities of the council chamber members. At the end of the chamber is a lion statue probably used to decorate the throne.
The Royal Palace
Leaving the area closest to the Parakrama Samudra, we reached by car the Citadel. In this zone, covering a surface of 19.8 acres (8 hectares), are some of the most important historical places in Polonnaruwa. Among them are the ruins of the Royal Palace, the council chamber, and the Kamara Pokuna or Royal Bath. The largest structure is the seven-storied palace Vaijayanta Prasada built by Parakramabahu the Great.
Audience hall
Under this name, some guides mention the Rajya Sabha Mandapaya or Royal court of king Parakramabahu I. Located to the east of Vaijayanta Prsasada, what captured my sight was the different decorative motifs on each layer. Elephants, lions, and vamana (dwarfs) are carved on the three levels while two moonstones are at the end of the steps. Unfortunately, while I was visiting this site, likewise while I was visiting the Potgul Vihara I have noticed some tourists taking photos of themselves touching with their bodies or sitting over the carvings. While it is nice to go back home with a picture of yourself inside beautiful archeological ruins like the audience hall, is it never appropriate to touch carvings or paintings. This is due to conservative reasons so that also future generations will be able to admire these sites.
Kamura Pokuna
Kamura Pokuna or the Royal Baths of king Parakramabahu the Great is another of the historical places in Polonnaruwa. Made of stone slabs, this pool is 44 feet long (13.4 mt.) and 33 feet wide (10 mt.). The bath is feed through an underground pipeline system testifying the hydraulic system created by Parakramabahu I. Kamura Pokuna is located in an area of the royal pleasure garden, or Nandana Uyana. The archeological ruins next to it must belong to the former royal changing room.
The religious historical places in Polonnaruwa
Among the religious, historical places in Polonnaruwa, the Dalada Maluwa is the most magnificent site. Under this name is a complex compromising the tooth relic quadrangle, one of the most sacred areas within the archeological site. This means that to visit the different buildings you need to enter barefoot and without any hat. The Temple of the tooth relic was here (now it is in Kandy). Known as the Hatadage built in sixty (hata) hours, scholars are debating if it was constructed under Parakramabahu I or his successor. An inscription mentions that this Temple of the tooth relic was built under Nissankamalla I (1187–1196). However, this king was used to label as own, edifices that he simply restored under his kingdom. The deeds of Nissankamalla I are inscribed on the Galpota (Stone book) to the east of the Hatage.
The Vatadage or Circular Relic house
The Vatadage is without any doubt one of the most impressive historical places in Dalada Maluwa. This is a circular stupa (a place containing relics where people can meditate) once protected by a roof. Around the central stupa are four statues of seating Buddha, each of them at the center of the four entrances. Moonstones decorate these accesses as well. The most important archeological detail is in the animals on moonstones. While during the Kingdom of Anuradhapura there were carved four animals, the elephant, the horse, the lion, and the cow, in Polonnaruwa the cow disappear from the décor. According to Hinduism, the cow is the vehicle of Shiva, and it was probably taken off from the entrance decoration to avoid that the people entering the temple could step on it. Polonnaruwa was the capital of Hinduism kingdom (the Chola) before a new Sinhalese power was established again in 1070.
Other historical places in the Dalada Maluwa in Polonnaruwa
Among the other historical places in the Dalada Maluwa, the Atadage is the oldest one. This former temple of the tooth relic was built under Vijayabahu I (1055–1110), the king who defeated Chola dynasty and regained the Sinhalese lineage. Another notable edifice is Thuparama, one of the best-preserved image houses. Its interior walls are decorated with gods and vamana (dwarfs) potteries. Moreover, this building contains stone-made sculptures of Buddha and is covered with a semi-cylindrical roof. Inside the precinct of the Dalada Maluwa, the Sathmahal Prasadaya is a rare example of stupa. Made out of bricks, it has a singular seven-level stepped pyramidal shape. Uncommon in Ceylon, this is a typical Cambodian and Malaysian one. For this reason, it is believed to have been built for the Cambodian soldiers who were working under the king. Another striking building is the Nissanka Latha Mandapa with carved pillars in the shape of lotus plants.
How to visit a religious historical places in Polonnaruwa
Entering inside the Dalada Maluwa and in the other religious places among the archeological ruins, you need to pay respect to the sacred sites. This means that to visit the different buildings you need to enter barefoot and without any hat. The problem is that you are probably going to visit Polonnaruwa on a hot day. The floors, built with dark stones, are very hot and there are here and there small stones. My best tip is to wear (or carry in your bag as I did) socks before entering inside. I found particularly useful my Pilates anti-slippery ones. Another essential rule regards your way of taking photos as you cannot take pictures with your back towards the statues. In the parking slots outside the Dalada Maluwa, the Royal Palace, and the Gal Viahare are vendors selling water. Make sure to carry a bottle of water with you at all time.
Other historical places to visit in Polonnaruwa
Leaving the Dalada Maluwa and its amazing buildings, our next stop was the Rankoth Vehera, the stupa with a golden pinnacle. While the gold is now missed, what is left is the imposing structure. With its 180 feet (54 mt.) of height and 550 feet (185 mt.) in circumference, this is the tallest stupa among the archeological ruins and the forth of the country. Soon after we entered inside the Alahana Pirivena complex.
This monastery is the biggest within the site of Polonnaruwa and, besides the Rankoth Vehera, compromises many other buildings. Among them, the most notable are the Baddha Seema Prasadaya, the Lankathilaka Image House, and the Kiri Vehera or milk stupa for its color. Particularly remarkable is the Lankathilaka the largest image house of ancient Sri Lanka built under Parakramabahu the Great Kingdom. From the exterior, you can notice beautiful sight on stucco relief sculptures with marked Indian influences.
Gal Viharaya or Rock Temple
Maybe the most popular among the historical places in Polonnaruwa, the Gal Viharaya is an impressive sight. Under its name goes a group of four statues representing Buddha and built by Parakramabahu the Great. Among them, the standing figure is the one whose interpretation arises the main controversy due to the unusual pose of the hands. The first one is a seated Buddha meditating as an open lotus. Next is the smaller image (15 feet circa) whose rock preserves traces of paintings. According to local folklore, the statue was covered with gold melted by hunters who burned tree trunks on the sculpture. The last one is a massive reclining Buddha with lotus flower carved on his feet. Behind the Gal Viharaya is a pond filled with stunning lotus flowers.
About the state of the archeological ruins
If the Gal Viharaya is the main reason why you would choose to visit Polonnaruwa over Anuradhapura, the state of the archeological ruins is the second one. At least these were the reasons why I dedicated my time exploring Polonnaruwa being only one week in Sri Lanka. In the second capital of Sri Lanka, the historical places are overall well preserved, and it is easy to understand what you are seeing. This is mainly thanks to the presence of information plaques. Placed next to each archeological site, they list all the places in Polonnaruwa providing a map of single buildings.
Polonnaruwa entrance fee
When you buy the ticket make sure to visit the adjacent Archeological museum with its lovely Hindu deities statues. Is not a big exhibition hall but it’s an excellent introduction. Unfortunately, the lady at the countertop was the less courteous person I have ever met in Sri Lanka. Differently, to what happened in Sigiriya she didn’t give me any map of Polonnaruwa along with the ticket. Curious but true the archeological site of Polonnaruwa doesn’t have an official.
Cost Adult $25; kids 6–12 years old $12.50
Other facts about the historical places in Polonnaruwa
As Polonnaruwa was the capital of Sri Lanka when the Chola kings from South India ruled the island, there is a strong influence of Hindu art. It is evident particularly from the removal of cows’ images from moonstones and for the presence of Shiva and Vishnu temples in Polonnaruwa.
The city is on the left bank of the river Mahaweli and is it closed to some excellent wildlife sanctuary. In detail, Polonnaruwa is located between the Wasgamuwa and the Kaudulla National Parks. When I left the city, I saw a massive herd of elephants close to a water pond.
When to visit — Polonnaruwa has a tropical climate most of the year that makes almost every month a good one to visit the archeological ruins. However, it may occasionally be very chilly in December and January.
