Things to see in Reykjanes geopark

Federica Provolenti
9 min readJul 2, 2019

If there had been greenery on the moon, the lunar landscape would have looked like the lava fields in the Reykjanes geopark. Black blocks of lava rocks covered by pale green moss extend for several miles. The panorama is breathtaking but a thick fog, now more, then less intense, makes the scenery even more fascinating. My solo driving in Iceland through the Reykjanes Peninsula is an unforgettable journey. Only in Lanzarote before I had the impression of passing through a place out of the world. The difference is that on the Canary island, I was more prepared to experience the unordinary. Before leaving, I knew that NASA conducted on Lanzarote their experiment before the lunar expedition training the Apollo 17 crew. Iceland, the northern European island, totally surprised me. Lava fields, fissures, and geothermal activity create a stunning earth heritage that makes Reykjanes a UNESCO global geopark.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Reykjanes peninsula self-drive

Driving alone on empty streets with scarce human presence contributed enormously to leave in me the impression of traveling through an abandoned land. However, different signals, along the journey, remind me that I am not alone. The horses on the fields and the few other tourists dot with their presence my otherwise wholly solo trip. What makes this drive extraordinary is the fast rate of passing through many geologically diverse areas. With the car, I pass through lava fields, watching mountains in the distance, and on the road, I meet hot spots and fumarole. The wind and the fog make it essential to follow the safety rules provided after renting a car in Iceland.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

The geographic diversity of Reykjanes geopark

Like my geography university professor said during one lesson, Iceland and Sicily are the most geographically diverse areas in Europe. The Icelandic lunar landscape in the Reykjanes UNESCO global geopark resides in the origin of its formation. In this young area of Iceland, the latest volcanic explosion occurred between 1210 and 1240. The land is relatively flat with many cracks and fissures on and below the lava surface. On the area coexist four different volcanic systems that with geothermal fields, fissures and faults contribute to the high diversity richness of Reykjanes geopark. The different geothermal regions of the peninsula give birth to a rich palette of colors that now and then breaks the black, volcanic landscape.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Where is the Reykjanes UNESCO geopark

The Reykjanes geopark is in southwest Iceland. Differently from this area, and under the Reykjanes Ridge’s name, is the ridge separating the North American Plate from the Eurasian Plate. Belonging to the Mid-Atlantic Ridge separating mainly underwater, the ridge is visible in Iceland likewise in other islands of the UK and Portugal. The best place to see the Reykjanes Ridge is in Þingvellir National Park. This UNESCO heritage site is the major attraction along the Golden Circle tour. Viewing the crack along the two tectonic plates is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating things to see in Iceland. While the Golden Circle is maybe the best-known attraction in Iceland, the Reykjanes peninsula hosts for sure the favorite leisurely one: the Blue Lagoon.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Grindavik and the Blue Lagoon

Without a doubt, the most famous attraction in the Reykjanes Peninsula and on its Geopark is the Blue Lagoon, a hot spring with top-notch facilities. While Iceland is dotted with hot springs, the Blue Lagoon is the favorite destination by international travelers that enjoy the quality of the amenities and the vicinity to the airport. Located near the fishermen village of Grindavik, Blue Lagoon is only a 30 miles (49 km) driving distance from Rekyavik and 13.29 miles (21.4 km) from the airport. Purchasing a daily pass, many travelers decide to relax in this place at the beginning or at the end of their tour of Iceland. Differently, I stayed in the dreamy The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon halfway during my solo travel in Iceland. What makes iconic this place is the milky blue color of its seawater due to the presence of silica mineral.

The Blue Lagoon — Photo by Federica Provolenti

What to know about the Blue Lagoon

While The Retreat is the most exclusive way to experience the Blue Lagoon, this hot spring is open to a broader range of guests through a system of time slots tickets. Booking in advance is essential, and the facility quickly fills with guests that continuously arrive with touristic buses or private cars. To access the spa there are three different options: Comfort, Premium, and Luxury. The last one is the only that allows access to both to the Blue Lagoon and to The Retreat spa but only for four hours.

Brimketill in Reykjanes Geopark

Leaving the Retreat at the Blue Lagoon and driving west, the first stop is by Brimketill. Under this name is a small pool carved by marine erosion on the lava shore east of Grindavik. In the westernmost part of Staòarberg, the waves of the North Atlantic Ocean dot the lava rock shore with small pools. Brimketill is the largest and most scenic, especially if you are lucky to visit it on a sunny day that wasn’t my case. According to a local tradition, the pond was home of a night troll named Oddny that used to bathe there. Caught by the sunlight while in Brimketill, she then turned into a pinnacle. Due to this legend, this natural pool is also known as Oddnýjarlaug, or ‘Oddný’s Pool.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Gunnuhever geothermal fumarole

At a 5 minutes driving distance from the Brimketill lies Gunnhever, another wonder of Reykjanes UNESCO Geopark. The site is made of a group of mud pools and steam vents. Historically this is a relatively young geo-formation as it is partly formed after earthquakes in 1967. What makes unique this site is that this hot spring is entirely made of seawater due to its vicinity to the ocean. A wooden pathway allows exploring the area that goes for 65 feet (19 mt) on length. However, you can see an old walkway to testifying the increased activity of the fumarole. As a consequence Gunnhever closed for few years before reopening in 2010.

Good to know As the high-pressure steam can find new ways to go out on the surface, it is always important to stay on the pathways.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Gunnuhever and the ghost Gunna

To contribute to the charm of this place is the story of the ghost Gunna after which the place (literally Gunna’s pool) is named. Gunna was a lady who lived in the area, as she is recorded in the census in the 18th century, and was probably considered a witch. According to folklore, she was always blending something in her pot. Unable to pay the rent, the landlord took away her pot. Gunna was furious and became mad until she died. On the way to the cemetery, she became a ghost. The next day Gunna’s landlord was found dead, and it’s the belief that this was her way to average herself from the man who took her pot. According to another variation, Gunna who was transformed into a volcanic chimney still in Gunnuhever.

Good to know Reykjanes lighthouse is visible on bright days, leaving Gunnuhever and driving west towards the coastline.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Krýsuvík, the most colorful area in Reykjanes

Nowhere else in the Reykjanes peninsula you will see a place where the four natural elements shape the landscape like in Krýsuvík. Here fire, water, air, earth work together to create pools, water basins and streams, colorful mineral sedimentations, and water bubbles. Leaving the Blue Lagoon and driving east, Krýsuvík is the area of the Reykjanes geopark where you can discover the richness of the volcanic activity. Several craters are now basins of the three lakes of Graenavatn, Gestsstadavatn, and Augun.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Seltún geothermal area

On Krýsuvík, Seltún is the most notable geothermal field. On the road, a clear signal indicates it. Known differently as Seltúnshverir (the hot springs at Seltún) or Krýsuvíkurhverir (the hot springs at Krýsuvík), this place offers an extraordinary variety of colors. Fumaroles with the intense smell of sulfur alternate with the colorful sediments of the minerals from geothermal activities. As in other geothermal areas across the Reykjanes geopark and Iceland, yellow signals advise that there is danger of steam explosion. A path along the area allow to safely visit Seltùn, and it’s important to follow the rules as recently geothermal activity has been recorded in the area. In detail, in February 2019 a steam explosion due to pressure changes underground happened.

Good to know — The parking area is near the street, and there is a small cabin with toilets.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Kleifarvatn, the largest lake in Reykjanes

Leaving the Seltun geothermal area, the landscape changes continuously until you reach the Kleifarvatn lake. With a surface of 9.1 sq. Km, Kleifarvatn is the largest lake of the Reykjanes peninsula in the UNESCO Geopark. It lies on a depression of 318 ft (97 mt) between the Brennisteinsfjöil massif and the ridge Sveifluháls. While light and incessant dazzle come from the sky, and a mist surrounds the landscape, the sight of this lake is beautiful. In any other part of Reykjanes peninsula, I have seen so many different interesting views. Behind the lake are black volcanic stratified rocky formations, and on a side, a field covered by purple flowers that here and there dot the Reykjanes geopark.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

The best season to visit Reykjanes geopark

I am a sun-seeker, and I don’t choose a cold destination for my travels. After four years in Chicago, where I survived two of the coldest winter in the local history, my travels are warm-weather oriented. However, I loved my summertime in Iceland. It was cold, and foggy but still the best solo trip I could take. Iceland touristic season is between June and August. On some articles, I have read that visitors should avoid these months, as there are too many tourists. As Rome is my hometown, I feel confident in saying that I never found Iceland overcrowded. During my stay, the average temperature was of 51 F (10 C). Moreover, the midnight sun makes it possible to visit many places until late at night. On the contrary, in December and January is likely to witness the Northern Lights.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

Geothermal energy in Reykjanes geopark

Traveling through the Reykjanes geopark, you will notice a geothermal power plant that captures heat from the Earth to produce green energy. The plant is relatively new, as its construction dates to 2004 and is one f the five plants in Iceland. In detail, in this land where shifting tectonic plates and volcanic activity push heath on the surface, scientists are capturing the heat to generate energy. Thanks to its position on the mid-Atlantic ridge, Iceland is pioneering in producing this renewable energy. According to the NEA, Icelandic National Energy Authority, in 2014, 85% of the energy used in Iceland came from local renewable resources, of which the 66% was from geothermal.

Bridge between continents

The Reykjanes geopark lies on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, one of the major plate boundaries between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. To celebrate the connection between the two continents, a bridge was built over a fissure. The so-called Bridge between continents connects the two sides of this crack near Sandvík. What is fascinating, as I could see while exploring the Golden Circle, is admiring the presence of diverging plates.

Reykjanes geopark useful information

For safety, you should never leave the pathways around the geothermal areas. In detail, the temperature can be over 530 F and falling into it can deadly harm. Moreover, if you are traveling with children, supervise them at all time.

The Reykjanes geopark is 40 minutes driving distance from Reykjavik and only 15 minutes from Keflavik international airport.

Photo by Federica Provolenti

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