Two days in Aarhus
During my recent road trip along with Denmark’s UNESCO heritage sites, I spent two days in Arhus. The name of this city was resonating in my mind for years. As a graduate student in Chicago, one of my American professors frequently mentioned this Danish city where she had a teaching assignment. Besides the fact that Aarhus was in 2017 the capital of European culture, I didn’t know anything about it. That’s why I decided to visit the second largest city in Denmark. I included Aarhus on my road trip along Denmark’ UNESCO heritage sites, and I planned to spend two days there.
Two days in Aarhus between art and design
I left Christiansfeld in the morning, and after the one-hour drive, I arrived in Aarhus. As lunchtime was approaching, I decided to stop in the gourmet area of the city. In the neighborhood of Frederiksbjerg, MP Bruuns Gade, the main street, is populated with shops, eateries, and restaurants. Among the prime quality options, I chose to try Kahler Spisesalon. This is the restaurant of the design shop of Herman Kähler’s who realize ceramics since the 1880s. While the flagship store is down the road, at house 41, in the cafeteria you will consume your food in one of their cute plates. Before entering the old town, my second goal was to discover the new urban development on the sea. By car, I drove to The Iceberg, passing the enchanting cultural center, Dokk1.
Where the river meets the sea
The important appointment of Aarhus as the capital of European Culture put the city to rethink about its origin. Historically a city of sailors, Aarhus chose to create a new urban development in its original area. Here, near the harbor, where the river meets the sea, the city built its new cultural space, Dokk1. Designed as a library and an area offering citizen services, this is the place that connects the town to its waters. Not far from here, after the harbor, rises Aarhus East, an area with interesting residential buildings. The most famous of them, for its iconic shape, it’s The Iceberg. On the opposite side of the street stays the pop art sculpture of Swiss artist Marc Moser. “ Sea Pink “ it’s a giant pair of glass with pink lens facing the sea. The joke of words and meaning and the way how it interacts with the surrounding it’s worth a trip here.
A charming street in downtown Vestergade
Between the harbor and the old town lies a charming street with small, colorful houses. This is Mollestien also considered the nicest street in Aarhus, and its houses are called booths or outhouses. Originally between 1870 and 1885, they originally had a kitchen and a living room on the ground floor, with a door and one or two windows facing the street.
Not far from this charming cobbled street, there is a lovely shop selling hand-made ceramics, small jewelry, and scarfs named 1+1 textile & design. Here in the area of Vestergade stays the oldest church of Aarhus, The church of our Lady (Von Frue Kirke).
The old city of Aarhus
In downtown Aarhus, another enchanting zone is represented by the Latin Quarter. Volden, Graven, Badstuegade, Klostergade are the name of the narrow, cobblestoned streets of this neighborhood filled with charming cafes and small shops selling handpicked items. The Latin Quarter is the oldest area of Aarhus, built at the end of the 14th century. Realized when the previous Viking fortifications were destroyed, strolling around the Latin Quarter is very relaxing thanks to its quaint atmosphere. As a mum, I enjoyed the baby clothing shop and the most famous Karrusella. This last is the Aarhus branch of a Danish toy store whose flagship is in the heart of Copenhagen.
The Cathedral and the Aarhus Theatre
The magnificent Reinassence cathedral built in Gothic style is the result of a transformation carried between 1449 and 1500. During these years the original Romanesque elements, created from the end of the 12th century until 1350 circa, were replaced with the actual ones. Consecrated to Saint Clement, the patron saint of sailors, it has fine golden portals, and a beautiful oak carved pulpit. The most notable piece of art it’s the altar with three set of panels visible depending on the liturgical calendar. The Aarhus cathedral is the most extended church in Denmark with a length of 305 foot (93 meters).
On the other side of the same plaza, stays the Aarhus Theatre. Built following the Art Nouveau style, its construction started in the late 19th century to replace the oldest one became too small to serve public demand. Designed by Danish architect Hack Kampmann(1856–1920), Aarhus theatre was inaugurated in September 1900.
ARoS, the art museum of Aarhus
During your two days in Aarhus make sure to visit ARoS, the local art museum. From several parts of the city, your sight will be caught y the colorful panoramic terrace of the hotel. This is Your rainbow panorama, a 500 foot circa (150 meters) long permanent walkway installation. Located on the rooftop of the museum, it offers a 360-degree view of the city of Aarhus and its sea. The peculiarity is that its glasses are made in all the rainbow colors.
Made by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, the panoramic terrace is one of the sticking architectonical elements of ARoS. Entering the museum, every visitor will admire the stunning spiral staircase that connects all the eight floors of the exhibition space. The entire museum was designed by the Schmidt/Hammer/Lassen architects group. From here you can enjoy the beautiful Concert Hall and Godsbanen, a former industrial area transformed into a cultural center.
Moesgaard Museum and Anthropology faculty
In planning your two days in Aarhus insert a visit to the stunning Moesgaard Museum. Opened in 2014, the museum hosts a permanent ethnographic section and temporary exhibition. What every visitor will admire is its outstanding architecture perfectly integrated with the landscape. Designed by Henning Larsen Architects and Kirstine Jensen, the Moesgaard Museum has an unusual sloped geometry to create a hill itself. From the outside is it possible to walk over the roof and admire the beautiful panorama over the countryside. In the enchanting old manor near the contemporary museum is housed the faculty of Anthropology and Archeology of the Aarhus University. The Museum is in a suburb just outside Aarhus, but if you don’t have a car, you can visit it by public transportation.
Where to eat in Aarhus
As previously mentioned in the popular district of Frederiksbjerg lies the higher concentration of gourmet addresses of Aarhus. Grocery shops and restaurants are located between M.P. Bruunsgade, Jægergårdsgade, and Frederiks Allé. Also known as “the larder of Aarhus,” this neighborhood has several Michelin starred restaurants like Frederikshoj, Gastromé, Substans, and Domestic. More eateries options are in downtown Aarhus. What I enjoyed most were the restaurants along the Aarhus River with outdoor seating options during the warm season. Given the vicinity of this area to my hotel, on my first night, I picked a restaurant there. My choice went for Kod, the Danish word for meat, and it didn’t disappoint me.
Where to sleep in Aarhus
When it comes to picking a hotel room in an unknown destination, I tend to choose a very central one. I base my selection on Google Maps, and in Aarhus I was fortunate. The Royal Hotel, even if somehow old-fashioned, was the perfect central location I was looking for. Few steps from the Cathedral and the Latin Quarter, itwas ideal for my two days in Aarhus. As my stay, there was part of a more extended road trip my second worry was to have a close parking space. While the hotel doesn’t have a private parking space, there is a public one between the hotel and the cathedral. I quickly found a free spot, as there is a high turnover. The payment system is straightforward as you have to insert your credit card and the plate number and then you enter the card again before leaving it.
