What to see in Siracusa, Sicily
When it comes to Italy, Sicily is my favorite region with so many places to discover. Syracuse (Siracusa in Italian) is one of the jewels in Sicily’s crown. One of the most amazing cultural events in the Western world, the Greek Theatre Festival, takes place in this city. It is a celebration of classical plays performed in the town’s ancient Greek theatre. This unique experience transports you through centuries of history back to the origin of Western drama.
I’ve returned to Syracuse several times and every time I love visiting the ancient ruins of the archeological park. Strolling around the narrow streets of Ortigia (from the Greek for quail) is pure awe. Here there are small romantic hotels with views of the sea and beautiful buildings. These charming features and the history of the city make Syracuse a place close to my heart.
History of Syracuse
Syracuse was built as a Greek settlement, founded by the Corinthians in 734 BC on the small island of Ortigia. After destroying a great invading fleet sent from Athens in 415 BC, it became the most powerful city in the ancient Western world. Syracuse attracted a handful of prominent Greek figures such as Archimedes, Aeschylus, and Pindar. Strolling around Ortigia, you will notice traces of its ancient past mixed with later influences from the Byzantine, Norman and Baroque eras.
What to do and see in Ortigia
Ortigia, the small island where Syracuse’s first settlement was formed, is the most charming part of the city. This is where you should spend your evenings and book your hotel. Here is my list of things to see and do in Syracuse that will make you fall in love with this city.
1. Duomo di Siracusa
Coming from the mainland and proceeding towards via Landolina, you will end your stroll in a charming plaza. Here, there are beautiful Baroque buildings and the impressive cathedral, encapsulating the history of the populations that came in succession to Syracuse. Behind the Baroque facade, built after the terrible earthquake of 1693 that destroyed the Norman one, is the ruin of the Doric Temple of Athena, used by the Byzantine to make a Christian church. From the exterior, the view of the columns is surprising and enchanting. Traces of the Doric temple are internally visible along with the remains of the Greek temple cella.
2. Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia
Strolling around the beautiful Piazza Duomo, you’ll find the church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. A real treasure is hidden inside — The Burial of Saint Lucy, an altarpiece by Caravaggio. He created this piece in 1608 in Syracuse after fleeing Malta, completing it two years before his death. Originally, he made it for the Basilica of Saint Lucy at the Sepulcher on the mainland. Because of this, you might notice that the altarpiece is disproportionate to its interior.
3. Fonte Aretusa
Leaving the Church of Santa Lucia, proceed towards the gulf and visit this natural fountain where papyrus plants grow organically. This is the legendary place where Artemis let her nymph, Arethusa, escape the sexual attempts of river god Alpheus. Transformed by Artemis into a spring of water, Arethusa flowed from Greece. Through an underground channel under the Ionian Sea, she then emerged here in Ortigia. Being water, Alpheus followed her love so that they came together.
4. Palazzo Bellomo
A collection of predominantly religious art is preserved inside this beautiful palace built during the Norman period in the 7th Century. Among the works is Antonello da Messia’s famous Annunciation. Palazzo Bellomo is a small museum with a cozy atmosphere.
5. Ortigia Market
Head to the Ortigia Market to immerse yourself in one of the most Italian of traditions — food shopping. Let yourself be overwhelmed by a feast for the eyes and palate. Open every morning except for Sundays, you will find a myriad of delicacies. The smell and the colors are amazing. I love the deep red of the hot chili peppers and the plain yellow of the lemons. At the market, you can also find meat and swordfish, and every type of cheese your appetite may long for. Go early in the morning and enjoy a stroll around the shouting and gesticulating vendors and customers.
6. Giudecca or Jewish area
Syracuse has the second-highest Jewish community in Sicily and strolling around this neighborhood you can learn about the culture’s influence on the town. Be sure to discover the oldest mikveh (ritual bath) in Europe, located in the basement of a local hotel. Probably in the area, on the site of Saint Joseph the Baptist Church, was located the main synagogue.
Good to know — To access the mikveh you should contact the hotel over the phone to arrange a guided tour. You can find more info here.
7. Papyrus Museum (Museo del Papiro)
Located in a former convent, the Papyrus Museum is a lovely and fascinating little institution dedicated to this plant. Imported from Egypt in the 3rd century BC, there is still a notable production of papyrus in the area. And you can see it growing in Fonte Aretusa. The museum is a little gem with an informative video playing at the entrance. A series of galleries display the story of the growth, production, and use of this plant. Do not miss the papyrus boats which are still used by fishermen on Lake Tana, Ethiopia to this day.
8. Museo dei Pupi
This little museum with its own puppet theatre celebrates the Sicilian traditions of pupil or puppet opera. The puppet theatre emerged in Sicily at the beginning of the 19th Century. UNESCO put the puppet opera in the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Here in Syracuse, it is possible to admire the historical collection of puppets and to attend a show. Medieval chivalric literature, Italian Renaissance poems, lives of saints and tales of bandits are at the core of the stories. You can book online for the show, and you can buy a program with the plot written in English.
9. Pottery shopping
Sicily is famous for its pottery production and Syracuse houses several stores that sell traditional and contemporary ceramics. CircoFortuna sells colorful pieces adorned with childlike designs inspiring happiness and energy. Caroline, the artist behind this brand, handcrafts all of the bowls, mugs, plates, and saucers. She also decorates lampshades, playing cards, and t-shirts. Kalimera sells Ceramiche De Simone, a brand born in the sixties from Palermitan artist Giovanni De Simone. The production is characterized by colorful images of the main Sicilian traditions, with pictures resembling Leger, Klee, Picasso, and Matisse. Looking at any of his pieces is a real joy. For more traditional pottery, try Ceramiche Artigianali Dolu. This shop, whose name stands for the two owners Domenica and Luca, produces and sells handcrafted ceramics with a traditional Sicilian feel. The selection is vast, ranging from tiles and vases to table accessories.
What to do and see in Syracuse mainland
Even if Ortigia is the most characteristic part of the city, the mainland has several spots well worth a visit. Here is my list of best places to check out on Syracuse’s mainland.
10. Neapolis Archeological Park
The vast majority of monuments in the Neapolis Archeological Park are from the ancient Greek and Roman eras. Among them, there is the famous Greek theatre carved in the rock with majestic terraces open to the public. The spectacular Orecchio di Dioniso (Ear of Dionysus) is also worth a visit. It is a cave naturally shaped like a human ear with beautiful acoustics. The legend says that the tyrant of Syracuse Dionysus used it for his prisoners. Keeping them here, he could learn their secrets. The altar of Hieron is also located within the park. The site is so large that up to 450 bulls could be sacrificed here at one time. In the northeast corner of the park, there is a necropolis along the street lined with Greek, Roman and Byzantine tombs.
11. Church of San Giovanni Evangelista and Catacombs
Near the Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime, easily recognizable for its iconic ceiling, is the open church of Saint John. A real gem, behind this church is a tunnel of catacombs where early Christians were buried in Syracuse. The Byzantine church, which collapsed during the earthquake of 1693, was built over the crypt of Saint Marciano. According to tradition, this was the most ancient Christian place of worship in the Western world.
Good to know: Take the guided tour, offered both in Italian and in English. Sometimes the catacombs are closed after a rainy day. Give them a call to make sure they are open. The website is not updated.
12. The Archeological Museum Paolo Orsi
This is one of my favorite archeological museums in Italy. It is not particularly beautiful from an architectural standpoint. However, its layout and marked sections make it easy to explore. This is the best starting point before taking a stroll around Syracuse and the surrounding area (which genuinely deserves a visit). The collection is stunning with pieces ranging from prehistoric times until the first century of the modern age.
Top tip: Visit before exploring the Neapolis Archeological Park to get some historical context on the area. To save money, buy the joint ticket including all the major attractions and make the trip up to the Villa del Tellaro.
13. Festival del Teatro Greco
This festival is one of the most amazing cultural events in the Western world. It presents a program of classical plays performed in the ancient Greek theatre of the Neapolis. Attending it in its original environment is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Every viewer will travel, through centuries of history, back to the origin of Western drama. This seasonal festival takes place once per year between the start of May until the beginning of July. Booking in advance is highly recommended.
14. Church of Santa Lucia
According to the tradition, the church was built on the burial place of the saint patronage of Syracuse, Lucy. The first church, built in the Byzantine era, was later enlarged by the Normans but the earthquake of 1693 destroyed it. Rebuilt after the seismic activity, this historical complex, formed by a church and a chapel, presents baroque features. The church is mostly empty. The main artwork, The Burial of Saint Lucy by Caravaggio, stays in Ortigia, while the relics of the saint were exploited and are now housed in Venice.
The war cemetery
Besides these highlights, on the mainland, you can visit other places as the Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime and the war cemetery. I am not a big fan of the church of the Madonna della Lacrime, which is not in harmony with the landscape. But, on the mainland, you will most certainly catch a glimpse of this impressive shrine dome. Its shape is meant to resemble the teardrop of the Madonna, to whom the shrine is dedicated. The French architects Michel Andrault and Pierre Parat are the designers of this place of worship. The war cemetery is also on the mainland. It contains over one thousand burials, mainly airforce, 134 of them unidentified. The graves belong to service members who lost their lives during the Commonwealth and ally forces invasion of Sicily in World War II.
Where to sleep in Siracusa, Sicily
Many attractions in Syracuse are located in Ortigia. Also, starting from late spring, due to local law of the city of Syracuse, the island is accessible to pedestrians only during the weekends. Plan your visit to the mainland accordingly and try to book a hotel in Ortigia to enjoy the best of what the city has to offer.
Here is a list of my favorite places, mainly located on the East side of the island since I have a marked preference for rooms with sunrise sea views!
Hotel Gutkowski
This three-star hotel is conveniently located in front of the main public parking spaces in Ortigia, with lovely sea views. It is also a pleasant stroll from most of the main attractions of the island. It is on the frugal side but has charming rooms and a small terrace. Go there if you are looking for the essentials: reasonable, clean accommodation with a taste of boutique hotel.
Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel
Close to the Gutkowski, this four-star hotel is set within two converted historic buildings. Stepping inside you will breathe the charming atmosphere of this place, and be surrounded by the care of the attentive staff. The perfect place if you are looking for a cozy hotel with a little luxury.
Antico Hotel Roma 1880
The Antico Hotel Roma 1880 is in a pink building in the real heart of Ortigia, a few steps from the beautiful cathedral. And as a guest here you will have plenty of time to admire the fantastic view of the Doric columns of the ancient temple while enjoying your Sicilian breakfast al fresco. The hotel to book if you want to be at the center of the scene.
